MTB pads

Check the remaining thickness of the friction material: less than 0.5 mm means they need replacing immediately. Most new pads have a friction thickness of 3 to 4 mm. Some brands (Shimano, SRAM) include a wear indicator (a slot or mark). Visually: remove the pads and measure the remaining thickness. An audible warning sign: a high-pitched metallic screech when braking often means that the metal backing is scraping against the disc, a situation that must be addressed immediately to avoid damaging the disc. Inspect the pads every 500 to 1,000 km, or after every ride in the rain.

Yes, provided the pad shape is compatible with the caliper, not the brand. Shimano, SRAM, Magura and TRP each have their own pad profiles (B01S, E01S, etc. for Shimano). Third-party brands (Galfer, Tektro, SwissStop, Braking) manufacture compatible pads, explicitly stating which calipers they are suitable for. Performance may differ slightly from the original, but the dimensional compatibility is sufficient to ensure safety. Always check the compatibility reference before making a purchase.

New pads require a break-in period of 20 to 50 braking actions to reach their optimal performance. Squeaking is normal during the break-in period: the surface of the pads needs to conform to the disc. Break-in procedure: on a gentle slope, perform 20 moderate braking actions from 30 to 5 km/h, allowing the brakes to cool between sets. This running-in process removes surface irregularities and transfers a thin layer of friction material onto the disc (controlled glazing). If the squeaking persists after 100 braking actions, remove the pads, lightly sand them with P120 sandpaper, rinse and refit.

Organic pads last 400 to 800 km under normal conditions; sintered pads last 1,200 to 2,000 km. These figures vary greatly depending on conditions: mud, sand and prolonged descents significantly accelerate wear. In intensive enduro riding, a pair of organic pads can wear out in 3 to 5 rides. A good habit to get into: check the pads after every wet ride and inspect them systematically before a demanding ride or a day at the bike park.

Changing the pads alone does not usually require bleeding, but pushing the pistons back can introduce air into the system. When changing the pads, you need to push the pistons back into the caliper to accommodate the new, thicker pads. If this is done too forcefully or if the pistons have play, air may be drawn into the system. Signs that bleeding is needed: the lever travels too far before engaging, or a spongy feel. Bleeding is carried out using the manufacturer's bleed kit (Shimano, SRAM) by circulating fresh brake fluid to remove air bubbles.

Yes, significantly. Sintered pads wear discs 30 to 50% faster than organic pads. Sintered metal is harder than the stainless steel of the discs, which accelerates rotor wear. For cyclists who mainly ride in dry conditions and do not engage in aggressive downhill riding, organic pads are better at preserving the discs (which are more expensive to replace). Sintered pads are justified for wet conditions and aggressive riding, despite this increased wear on the rotors.

Pads contaminated with chain oil or grease must be replaced, not cleaned. The oil penetrates the pores of the pads, making it impossible to remove completely using household methods. Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol temporarily reduces the contamination but does not remove it. Contaminated pads brake unpredictably and may prove ineffective at critical moments. Prevention is the only solution: never spray lubricant towards the brakes, and cover the calipers when servicing the chain.

DH/Enduro pads are thicker, more heat-resistant, have more friction material and sometimes feature cooling fins. Standard Trail pads are lightweight and suitable for moderate descents where heat is not a critical factor. Enduro and DH pads (Galfer FD452, Swissstop EXO-TI) feature titanium backing plates that dissipate heat more effectively, reduce fading (loss of power due to overheating) and last longer under intensive use. They are more expensive, but the investment is well worth it for enduro and bike-park riders.

The reference is engraved on the caliper or pad: B01S, B05S (Shimano), Level (SRAM), Storm (SRAM), etc. Shimano offers numerous families of pads (B01S, B03S, B05S, E03S, J02A, K02S) suited to each range of calipers (Deore, SLX, XT, XTR, Zee, Saint). The Shimano compatibility chart is available on their website. SRAM distinguishes between Code, Guide, Level and DB pads. Magura has its own models: Storm HC, EVO, etc. Third-party brands (Galfer, Swissstop) explicitly list compatible calipers on their packaging, simplifying the selection process.