Bicycle brake pads

Using aluminium brake pads on carbon rims is a serious mistake that can destroy the rim in just a few braking manoeuvres. Brake pads for aluminium rims contain abrasive particles and chemical compounds that delaminate the surface layers of the carbon, creating weak points. Brake pads for carbon rims use softer compounds (resin, cork, rubber) that do not damage the carbon and better manage the heat generated during descents. Specialist brands (Swissstop Black Prince, Kool Stop Dura-type Carbon) explicitly state compatibility on the packaging. Always check before purchasing.

No, the bracket (cartridge) is compatible across brands, but the pads themselves differ depending on the shape of the pad holder. There are two systems: the monobloc pad (the rubber block is fixed directly onto a metal bracket) and the cartridge system (the rubber block can be replaced without changing the bracket). Shimano and most modern brakes use the cartridge system, which allows you to replace just the rubber at a lower cost. Shimano-type cartridges are largely compatible across brands (Kool Stop, Swissstop and BBB make Shimano-compatible cartridges). Campagnolo has its own slightly different cartridge dimensions.

Position the brake pads parallel to the rim, with a slight toe-in (the front of the pad closer to the rim), and centre them precisely in relation to the braking surface. Toe-in (front tip closer) reduces vibrations and high-pitched noises when braking. The recommended angle is a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm between the front and rear of the pad. The height must be adjusted so that the pad contacts the braking surface of the rim without extending onto the tyre (risk of puncture) or down towards the bottom of the rim (ineffective braking). Tighten the fixing bolts to the recommended torque (usually 6 to 8 Nm).

Swissstop and Kool Stop dominate the market for high-performance road bike brake pads. Swissstop (a Swiss brand) offers the Yellow King and Black Prince pads, renowned for their exceptional bite in wet conditions and their durability on carbon rims. Kool Stop Dura-type is recognised for its progressive braking and stable performance on descents. For aluminium rims, the BBB BBS-09 and the original Shimano Dura-Ace pads are of excellent quality. On carbon rims, never use the standard grey pads that come fitted to entry-level bikes.

During prolonged descents from mountain passes, the heat generated by braking is a critical factor that only high-performance brake pads can handle properly. Standard brake pads degrade rapidly under the effect of heat (the rubber melts or vitrifies), reducing braking performance precisely when you need it most. High-performance brake pads (Swissstop Flash Pro, Kool Stop Dual Compound) use high-temperature compounds that maintain their effectiveness even after several minutes of intense braking. On carbon rims during descents, heat can also cause the carbon resin to delaminate: Swissstop Black Prince carbon brake pads are designed to dissipate this heat.

Only if the braking system is the same (rim brakes), but this is not recommended. MTB brake pads often have more aggressive compounds to compensate for muddy conditions and the far less precise rims found on MTBs. On smooth aluminium road rims, they can cause significant scoring. More fundamentally, the majority of modern road bikes are fitted with disc brakes, which are incompatible with rim brake pads. This question therefore only applies to bikes fitted with rim brakes (Shimano 105/Ultegra, Campagnolo, SRAM calipers).

Yes, a break-in period of 50 to 100 braking actions is recommended to optimise performance on carbon rims. New carbon brake pads have a slightly smooth contact surface that needs to conform to the rim’s surface. Break-in procedure: perform 20 to 30 sets of moderate braking from 50 to 20 km/h on flat terrain, allowing the brakes to cool between each set. This break-in process evens out the contact surface, reduces initial squeaking noises and optimises braking power. After break-in, always check the adjustment as the pads may shift slightly.

Clean the rims with isopropyl alcohol and inspect the brake pads to remove any embedded particles. Over time, metal particles (road dust, rim debris) become embedded in the rubber of the brake pads, turning them into sandpaper for the rim. Check the surface of the brake pads after every muddy ride: if shiny particles are visible, remove them with a fine-tipped tool. Cleaning the rims with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol removes grease and foreign matter that reduce grip. Never use standard bike cleaner on the braking surface of a carbon rim.

Yes: regularly inspect the water drainage slots and remove any embedded particles. Rim-mounted brake pads accumulate metal particles from the rim on their surface as the kilometres go by. These particles turn the pad into an abrasive that scratches the rim. After every ride in the rain, inspect the friction surface: if shiny splinters are visible, remove them with a fine-tipped tool. The transverse groove (central groove) must remain clear as it drains water between the brake pad and the rim during wet braking.