Tubeless · 26 mm / 29 mm · Competition · Approx. 1500 km
€81.45€121.45
(1 review)
Frequently asked questions
Want to find out more?
The trend in recent years has clearly been towards wider tyres. The 25 mm remains the versatile standard: good comfort, good performance, compatible with almost all current frames. The 28 mm is gaining ground for cyclosportives and endurance riding: less vibration, more grip in corners and in wet conditions, with no significant increase in rolling resistance on modern rims. The 23 mm size survives mainly for very long climbs where every gram counts. Below 23 mm, we leave the realm of everyday use and enter that of time trials and track cycling.
The tubetype, with an inner tube, is the most common system: easy to fit, repairable at the roadside with a spare inner tube, and available across all price ranges. The tubeless tyre eliminates the inner tube, which removes the risk of punctures, reduces rolling resistance by 1 to 3 watts per tyre, and allows you to ride at lower pressures for greater comfort. The downside: fitting is more technical, requires sealant (to be replaced every 2 to 4 months) and a compatible rim. For a cyclist covering 5,000 km a year, the benefit is real and well-documented.
TPI (Threads Per Inch) measures the thread density of the casing. The higher the TPI, the more flexible and lightweight the casing: better performance, greater comfort, and better grip when cornering. For a high-quality road tyre, aim for over 100 TPI. Above 200–320 TPI (Vittoria Corsa, Veloflex), you reach the top end of the competition range. Note: some manufacturers add up the TPI of several plies. A tyre advertised as 330 TPI may correspond to three layers of 110 TPI, not a single carcass. The flexibility felt during fitting remains the best indicator in practice.
Two models that dominate the high-end road segment. The Continental GP5000 (tubetype or STR in tubeless) excels in rolling resistance with its Black Chili rubber and Vectran protection. The Michelin Power Cup counters with a very supple casing and a dynamic rubber compound. In terms of measured rolling resistance (bicyclerollingresistance.com), both sit at around 10–11 watts at 30 km/h and 7 bar. The GP5000 offers slightly better puncture protection. The Power Cup is a touch more responsive and comfortable. Final choice: depending on your riding profile and preferences, both are excellent all-round tyres.
The accepted rule of thumb in the cycling community: the ideal pressure in bars is approximately 10% of the total weight of the system (cyclist + bike) for a 25 mm tyre. For a 70 kg cyclist with an 8 kg bike (78 kg total), this works out at around 7.8 bar at the rear and slightly less at the front. For 28 mm tyres, reduce the pressure by about 1 bar. For tubeless tyres, reduce it further by 0.5 to 1 bar. These figures are starting points: the manufacturer’s recommendations printed on the tyre sidewall remain the absolute benchmark and must never be exceeded.
Tyre/rim compatibility depends on the ratio of the rim’s internal width to the tyre’s cross-section, as defined by the ETRTO. For a rim with an internal width of 19 mm (common on modern disc wheels), the optimal cross-sections are 25 to 32 mm. For a 21 mm internal rim, the range goes up to 30–35 mm. Fitting a 23 mm tyre on a 21 mm internal rim creates a so-called ‘bulb-shaped’ profile, which is detrimental to stiffness and aerodynamics. The general rule is clear: a tyre wider than the external rim width is acceptable, whilst a tyre narrower than the internal rim width should be avoided.
For daily training and high-mileage weeks, a tyre with reinforced protection (Vectran, Duraskin or Aramid layer) is a sensible investment. It costs a few extra watts in rolling resistance but saves time and frustration. Semi-slick tyres with intermediate protection, such as the Continental Grand Prix 4 Season or the Schwalbe Durano Plus, offer a good compromise for training. Racing tyres (GP5000, Corsa) should be reserved for specific rides or competitions; their thin sidewalls and flexible casing do not withstand intense daily use for long.
There is no universal mileage figure, as conditions vary so much. On a mid-range tyre (GP4000, Michelin Pro4), a rear tyre lasts between 3,000 and 5,000 km in standard road use, a front tyre twice that. A high-end tyre with a thin casing (Corsa Speed, GP5000 TT) rarely lasts more than 2,500–3,000 km on the rear wheel. Signs to watch out for: casing visible beneath the tread (visible fabric weave), cracked sidewalls, and an increasing number of punctures. Never wait until a tyre is in tatters: the loss of grip and performance is noticeable well before that.
Yes, a tubeless or tubeless-ready tyre can be fitted to a conventional tube-type rim, provided an inner tube is added. In this case, you lose all the benefits of tubeless but retain a high-quality tyre. The reverse operation (fitting a tube-type tyre to a tubeless rim) is also possible, with an inner tube being mandatory. However, using a tube-type tyre without an inner tube on a tubeless-ready rim is not recommended: the seal is not guaranteed and the bead of a tube-type tyre does not seat properly in the tubeless groove.
The sealant gradually dries out inside the tyre, especially in hot weather. Under normal conditions, it should be checked every 2 to 3 months and replaced as soon as there is less than 15–20 ml left in the tyre. For a 25–28 mm road tyre, the recommended initial quantity is 30 to 45 ml. Using too little sealant negates the puncture protection. Latex-based sealants (Stans NoTubes, Orange Seal) dry out faster but seal punctures more effectively. Water-based sealants (Effetto Mariposa Caffélatex) last longer but are less effective on large punctures.
