Chain lubricant

Hot wax (Silca Hot Melt, Smoove Wax) is recognised as the cleanest and most durable treatment. Hot wax involves immersing the degreased chain in melted wax, then allowing it to cool: the wax penetrates each link and solidifies, protecting against wear. Advantages: virtually silent chain, very clean (dirt does not stick), lasts 200 to 400 km between applications, no oil on your legs or the frame. Disadvantages: demanding initial procedure (complete degreasing of the new chain), does not withstand heavy rain. Ideal for dry conditions and competition.

Every 150 to 300 km in dry conditions, after every ride in the rain, and as soon as the chain creaks or rubs dry. A well-lubricated chain is silent and runs smoothly. Signs that the chain needs re-lubricating: creaking whilst pedalling, noticeable resistance on large sprockets, or a dull grey colour (the chain is dry). Lubricating too often is not a problem, but allowing too much lubricant to build up without cleaning creates a deposit of abrasive grime that is more harmful than a lack of lubricant.

Apply one drop per link, leave to soak in for 5 minutes, and wipe off any excess from the outside. Lubricant must not remain on the outside of the chain: excess lubricant on the outer sides of the links attracts dust and forms grime. Apply a single drop per link whilst turning the chain slowly. Leave to soak in for 5 to 10 minutes. Wipe the outside of the chain with a dry cloth, holding the cloth lightly in place whilst turning the pedal. Repeat if the chain is very dry.

No to both: cooking oil goes rancid and attracts bacteria; WD-40 is a degreaser, not a lubricant. Cooking oil breaks down quickly when exposed to the air and creates a sticky residue that generates grime far worse than having no lubricant at all. WD-40 (Water Displacement) is designed to displace moisture and dissolve rust: it cleans the chain rather than lubricating it. After applying WD-40, a chain is clean... but dry. Use only specific bicycle lubricants.

A good lubricant lasts 200 to 400 km in dry conditions; switching brands is possible but not necessary if the current product is suitable. The lifespan depends on the type of lubricant, the conditions (dry/wet, road/gravel) and the frequency of maintenance. There is no reason to change brands if performance is satisfactory. However, if the chain gets dirty too quickly (wet lubricant in the middle of a dry summer), it makes sense to adapt the type of lubricant to the current conditions.

A suitable lubricant can double the lifespan of the chain and cassette. A dry chain causes metal-on-metal abrasion, which quickly wears down the rollers and links. A suitable lubricant reduces this internal wear. Studies by brands such as Silca and Ceramicspeed show that a chain lubricated with a high-quality wax wears 2 to 3 times slower than a chain using a standard liquid lubricant. The cassette and chainring, which come into contact with the worn chain, also benefit from this protection.

Organic lubricants are based on vegetable oils (jojoba oil, linseed oil) and contain no petroleum solvents; conventional lubricants are based on mineral oil. Organic lubricants (Green Oil, Juice Lubes) are biodegradable and less toxic to the environment and the skin. Their performance is generally comparable to conventional products under normal use. Some cyclists find that organic lubricants last slightly shorter in very wet conditions. For environmentally conscious cyclists, organic products offer a good compromise without sacrificing performance.

Ceramic lubricants (Ceramic Speed UFO, Morgan Blue Reflex) offer a measurable reduction in resistance but at a significantly higher price. The ceramic nanoparticles incorporated into these lubricants reduce friction between the metal parts of the drivetrain. Independent tests show a reduction of 1 to 3 watts compared to ordinary lubricants. For a competitive cyclist, saving 2 watts is worth the investment. For an amateur cyclist covering 3,000 km a year, the difference is imperceptible in practice and the cost-benefit ratio is not very favourable.

Standard steel cables should be lubricated with a PTFE spray every 2,000 to 3,000 km; polymer-coated cables (Gore, Shimano Optislick) do not require lubrication. Injecting a light PTFE lubricant into the ends of the sheaths maintains the cables’ smooth movement. This takes 5 minutes and significantly improves derailleur precision and the smoothness of braking. Gore Ride-On and Shimano Optislick cables feature a permanent PTFE coating that is degraded by external lubricants: never lubricate these systems.