Road bike tubular tyres

25 mm has become the benchmark standard in competition. Contrary to popular belief, a wider tubular tyre undergoes less longitudinal deformation under the rider’s weight, which reduces the contact patch and improves efficiency. The 23 mm remains a viable option for time trials and high-speed races on smooth roads, thanks to its aerodynamic profile. The 22 mm is now a niche choice (track, triathlon), ill-suited to typical French roads. For cyclosportive or training use, the 25 mm offers the best balance of weight, performance and comfort.

Gluing is the critical step and must not be rushed. You must: first let the tubular tyre rest for 24 to 48 hours to soften the casing, then apply a first coat of glue to the clean rim and leave it to dry for 12 hours, then apply a second coat to the rim and a coat to the tubular tyre, fit the tyre centrally and inflate immediately to full pressure to flatten the sidewalls, and finally leave to dry for at least 24 hours before riding. Double-sided tubeless tape (Jantex, Velox) is an acceptable alternative for training, but not recommended for high-speed descents on carbon wheels.

Yes, this is one of the advantages of tubular tyres over clincher tyres. Stuck to the rim, a tubular tyre that loses pressure stays in place and allows you to ride carefully for several kilometres at reduced speed without damaging the rim. This is why professional riders use tubular tyres despite the complexity of their maintenance: the team car is always nearby. For an amateur cyclist without support, the practical solution is to carry a pre-glued spare tubular tyre in a sealed bag, which can be changed in 3 minutes at the side of the road (without perfect gluing, but sufficient to get home).

The top-of-the-range cyclosportive options are the Vittoria Corsa Graphene (latex inner tube, 320 TPI, 210–230 g) and the Challenge Criterium RS (260 TPI, latex inner tube). Both perform excellently on clean roads. For intensive use requiring greater protection, the Continental Competition (330 TPI, Vectran) is a safe bet. The Tufo Elite Ride, meanwhile, offers good durability at a lower cost. On rough roads or in wet conditions, a tubular with a puncture-resistant layer (such as Continental or certain Vittoria Corsa Control models) will perform less well but be significantly more reliable.

A tubular tyre glued to an unused rim gradually loses its adhesive properties. The rule of thumb for race mechanics: re-glue or check the glue on all stored tubulars once a year. A tubular tyre that peels off easily by hand outside the mounting area is a warning sign. For unmounted spare tubular tyres, store them flat or in a slightly inflated loop, away from heat and direct light. A rim with old, dried-out adhesive must be cleaned with acetone before refitting to ensure proper adhesion.

Latex is the choice for performance. It is lighter (20–30 g lighter), more flexible, and reduces internal friction. Some professional riders re-inflate their tubular tyres before each stage due to the natural porosity of latex. For a cyclist who cannot re-inflate before every ride, butyl is more practical: it retains air much better and only requires a weekly check. High-end tubular tyres (Vittoria, Challenge, Veloflex) come with a latex inner tube as standard. Training tubulars (Continental Sprinter, Tufo) often feature butyl or a blend.

No, these are two incompatible standards. A tubular tyre is glued to a specific rim with a flat or slightly curved profile, without tubeless beads or grooves. Fitting a tubular tyre to a tubeless-ready rim would damage the adhesive and create a risk of the tyre coming off the rim. Conversely, a tubular rim cannot accommodate a tube tyre or a tubeless tyre: it lacks the necessary beads to hold the inner tubes in place. You therefore need two separate sets of wheels if you want to alternate between tubulars (racing) and tyres/tubeless (training), which is what many regular cyclists do.

Vittoria Mastik’All remains the classic choice: excellent adhesion on aluminium and carbon rims, acceptable heat resistance, and a consistency that makes it easy to apply. Tufo Extreme Glue is popular for carbon rims, on which Mastik’All can be a little harsh. Double-sided tubeless tape (Jantex, Velox) is a quick alternative for training only: it cannot withstand a prolonged hot descent on a carbon rim with rim brakes. On disc rims (where the rim does not heat up), double-sided tape is perfectly acceptable, even in competition.

Technically, yes, but it’s a precision job best done in a workshop, not at the side of the road. You need to partially unpick the bead seam, remove the inner tube, locate the puncture, apply a patch, put the inner tube back in, and then re-sew and seal the seam. This process takes 1 to 2 hours. In practice, the vast majority of cyclists simply replace the tubular tyre rather than repairing it: a mid-range training tubular (€20–35) does not justify the time spent on repair. Only high-end tubulars (Vittoria Corsa, Challenge) costing over €70–80 might be worth repairing.